Use the handy “Horizontal Loads Table” above
to determine in pounds your holding power requirements for different
wind speeds. NOTE: This table assumes boats of average beam and
windage. If your boat has above average beam or windage, refer
to loads for the next larger size boat. The numbers in columns
for feet = lbs., and the numbers in the columns for meters = kg. |
2.
Use Adequate Scope.
Scope
is the length of anchor line relative to the distance from your
boat’s deck to the sea bottom. We recommend at least 5:1
scope. |
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| At
10:1 the holding power will double, and at less than 3:1 you will
give up a significant amount of holding power and may experience
problems setting the anchor. |
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| In
crowded anchorages “Power Set” your anchor at 5:1 scope,
then shorten scope as required. Remember that your depth sounder
may be giving you the water depth under your keel, rather than
from the true waterline, in which case you need to add your draft
plus the height of your deck when calculating scope. |
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3. “Power
Set” Your Anchor.
Know
that your anchor is properly set! Back down very, very slowly.
Then as the anchor begins to set, very slowly increase the load
with your engine. Backing down at any speed at all may not give
your anchor a chance to dig in and bury itself. |
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|
| You
can simulate the force of the wind by using your engine’s
thrust to set your anchor to a predetermined load. Match your
boat’s total maximum horsepower and hull type in the table
above to determine how hard your boat can“Power Set”
your anchor. |
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4. Anchor
Resetting.
In
areas of changing tide or wind, set two anchors off the bow in
opposite directions. Any anchor can occasionally fail to reset
once it has been pulled out of the bottom. |
|
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| Don’t
be fooled by some manufacturer’s claims about any anchor’s
ability to dependably reset 100% of the time! Set two anchors
if you expect a change in wind or current. |
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5. Anchor
Retrieval.
Slowly
move the boat to a position directly over the anchor, pulling
in the line as you go. Then snub the line on a cleat and power
backwards slowly to pull the anchor out of the bottom. Do not
power forward because that will require more energy and put very
heavy loads on the anchor and gear. |
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6. Support
Hardware.
Remember that your anchor system includes the shackle, rope, chain, and deck cleats. Every item must be able to deliver the strength you need. Refer to the handy selection guide on the previous page. |
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7. Anchor
Rode.
Use
a short length of chain and three strand nylon line. The nylon
is very elastic and greatly reduces shock loads on your boat and
it’s anchoring system. The chain protects the line against
chafe from the sea bed and also help provide horizontal pull on
the anchor when it is initially beginning to set. If you regularly
anchor in 25 ft (8 m) of water or less, use 6 ft (2 m) of chain.
For greater depths, use 6 ft (2 m) for every 25 ft (8 m) of water
depth. (ie: use 24 ft (7 m) of chain if you regularly anchor in
100 ft (30 m) of water). |
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| All
chain anchor rodes lack the shock absorbing ability of nylon rope
when the wind pipes up! |
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8. Soft
Mud Bottoms.
All
soft mud bottoms offer greatly reduced holding power, so be sure
your anchor can provide the holding power you need. Some bottoms
offer as little as just 15% of the holding available in firmer
bottoms! |
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Some
soft mud bottoms have a sticky consistency which makes them difficult
to set an anchor in. If soft mud setting problems occur, try setting
the anchor initially at very short scope, e.g. 2:1. Then, increase
the scope to at least 5:1 and “Power Set” the anchor.
Special “Mud Palms” are included for both Fortress and
Guardian anchors to aid setting in very soft problem mud. We recommend
that you install the “Mud Palms” on your anchor, as
they help the anchor set faster in any type of bottom.
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