| Use
the handy Horizontal Loads Table above to determine
in pounds your holding power requirements for different wind speeds.
NOTE: This table assumes boats of average beam and windage. If your
boat has above average beam or windage, refer to loads for the next
larger size boat. The numbers in columns for feet = lbs., and the
numbers in the columns for meters = kg. |
|
2.
Use Adequate Scope.
Scope
is the length of anchor line relative to the distance from your
boats deck to the sea bottom. We recommend at least 5:1 scope. |
 |
| At
10:1 the holding power will double, and at less than 3:1 you will
give up a significant amount of holding power and may experience
problems setting the anchor. |
 |
| In
crowded anchorages Power Set your anchor at 5:1 scope,
then shorten scope as required. Remember that your depth sounder
may be giving you the water depth under your keel, rather than from
the true waterline, in which case you need to add your draft plus
the height of your deck when calculating scope. |
|
3.
Power Set Your Anchor.
Know
that your anchor is properly set! Back down very, very slowly. Then
as the anchor begins to set, very slowly increase the load with
your engine. Backing down at any speed at all may not give your
anchor a chance to dig in and bury itself. |
 |
| You
can simulate the force of the wind by using your engines thrust
to set your anchor to a predetermined load. Match your boats
total maximum horsepower and hull type in the table above to determine
how hard your boat canPower Set your anchor. |
|
4.
Anchor Resetting.
In
areas of changing tide or wind, set two anchors off the bow in opposite
directions. Any anchor can occasionally fail to reset once it has
been pulled out of the bottom. |
 |
| Dont
be fooled by some manufacturers claims about any anchors
ability to dependably reset 100% of the time! Set two anchors if
you expect a change in wind or current. |
|
5.
Anchor Retrieval.
Slowly
move the boat to a position directly over the anchor, pulling in
the line as you go. Then snub the line on a cleat and power backwards
slowly to pull the anchor out of the bottom. Do not power forward
because that will require more energy and put very heavy loads on
the anchor and gear. |
|
6.
Support Hardware.
Remember
that your anchor system includes the shackle, rope, chain, and deck
cleats. Every item must be able to deliver the strength you need.
Refer to the handy selection guide on the previous page. |
|
7.
Anchor Rode.
Use
a short length of chain and three strand nylon line. The nylon is
very elastic and greatly reduces shock loads on your boat and its
anchoring system. The chain protects the line against chafe from
the sea bed and also help provide horizontal pull on the anchor
when it is initially beginning to set. If you regularly anchor in
25 ft (8 m) of water or less, use 6 ft (2 m) of chain. For greater
depths, use 6 ft (2 m) for every 25 ft (8 m) of water depth. (ie:
use 24 ft (7 m) of chain if you regularly anchor in 100 ft (30 m)
of water). |
 |
| All
chain anchor rodes lack the shock absorbing ability of nylon rope
when the wind pipes up! |
|
8.
Soft Mud Bottoms.
All
soft mud bottoms offer greatly reduced holding power, so be sure
your anchor can provide the holding power you need. Some bottoms
offer as little as just 15% of the holding available in firmer bottoms! |
 |
| Some
soft mud bottoms have a sticky consistency which makes them difficult
to set an anchor in. If soft mud setting problems occur, try setting
the anchor initially at very short scope, e.g. 2:1. Then, increase
the scope to at least 5:1 and Power Set the anchor.
Special Mud Palms are included for both Fortress and
Guardian anchors to aid setting in very soft problem mud. We recommend
that you install the Mud Palms on your anchor, as they
help the anchor set faster in any type of bottom. |